wand streichen dreieck

wand streichen dreieck

attention grabbing intro hello youtube, i'm skyler ostler,in today's apprenticeship i will teach you how to make a con-ready master sword fromzelda: ocarina of time using pvc and an off the shelf thermoplastic! roll branding intro are you ready to make a sweet mastersword that requires no paper or glue and doesn't need an entire workshop to build? let'sget started! for this build you will need: a 4ft length1" sch 40 pvc pipe, a 1ft length piece of 1/2" schedule 40 pvc pipe, a heat gun (ibought a nice one at home depot for around

$35 and it is worth every penny), rustoleummetallic silver spray paint, rustoleum metallic blue spray paint, minwax clear gloss fastdrying polyurethane, a gold deco color premium paint pen, my free downloadable master swordtemplate, and last but definitely not least the most amazing stuff ever invented in thehistory of ever. a 35 oz. tub of polly plastics thermoplastic and if you stay tuned to theend of the video i have a special offer for you.a full list of materials and tools is provided in the description as well as a link to thetemplate. first things first, download and print offthe master sword pdf template. then tape together the six sheets that includethe blade.

if you would like to, you can use a sharpieto fill the gaps created by printer margins. i'd advise taping the template down to keepit from sliding and taping down a layer of wax paper to protect your template and providea non-stick surface. i like to leave a little tab on the tape foreasy removal later on. next, let's create a forge for making ourblade by laying out some tinfoil at least as long as the blade on the template and foldit into thirds and unfold it to create a u-channel that the blade can be heated in.make sure to protect your work surface from the heat.you can use towels, heatpads, even a posterboard scribbled on by your two year old.i'll be using towels

use the template to cut your 1" schedule40 pvc to size. place it in the forge and heat it evenly usinga heat gun. it is ready when it behaves more like a swimmingnoodle than a pvc pipe, trying to keep it straight as possible pull it out and pressit flat as possible between two flat objects like 2x4's.if you have clamps, use them, or you can be like me and put it on the ground and justtry to throw your whole body weight into it. use the template to draw the tip onto thetop of the blade, make sure to connect the two tips together centered on the side.using the template and a ruler draw reference marks along the blade every 3-6inches showingthe flat section of the hexagonal blade.

once you reach the part of the blade wherethe sloping edge tapers, transfer the sloping taper seen on the template, onto your blade.then play connect the dots with your reference marks down the length of the blade.use the template to mark the spot on your blade where it should taper from flat bladeto round handle and then heat that section with the heat gun until it expands back toits cylindrical nature. wearing gloves or a hot pad make sure it cools straight andhas a smooth transition from flat to round. then once again at the template, transferthe markings onto your blade marking the ricasso or the unsharpended part of the blade abovethe guard. now the blade will really start taking shape,you can cut the tip either by heating it and

using a utility knife, or my preferred method,using an electric sander. either way you will need to re-heat the tipand press it together and trim any mis-shaping that it created you may end up with some small gaps, but have no fear, that's why polly plastics is here!you can easily fill those gaps at any time using your thermoplastic.this next step is one of the most time consuming but is well worth it, we will be giving thepvc blade the hexagonal cross-section that is an iconic and distinguishable characteristicof the master sword. using your lines you drew on both sides of the blade we will betapering it at roughly a 15-20 degree angle from your lines towards the edge leaving themiddle section untouched.

to do this you can use anything you have fromsanding by hand, to a file, or once again my weapon of choice, the electric sander.i imagine dremel tool would work well too! whichever you choose, this is the desiredlook we are trying to achieve. you can see where the primary portion of theblade tapers off, the flat portion of the blade is left un-touched for a nice smoothfinish. the tri-force will go where the taper ends and then below that is the ricasso. wewant the ricasso to jut in a little more than the rest of the blade to accentuate the triforce.so we will just flatten down straight across along your markings, all the way into thehandle. i am going to use a file for this sectionbut, once again you may prefer to weild a

different weapon to tackle this foe.the sander might be difficult to use to get the tip of the blade, a file works great tohave a little more control over the taper in that regards.regardless of the method used to create the taper and shape the blade, i do recommendgiving all the shaped edges the twice-over with a lighter grit sand to get as smootha finish as possible, it will make a difference when it comes to painting time, i promise.with the blade complete, lets move onto the fun stuff!pull out your handle/ pommel template, and some wax paper.we will be starting with ribbed section of the handlebegin by tracing the rectangle onto the wax

paper.use a sharp point or a pen to poke a hole in all four corners of the rectangle.then laying the waxpaper straight on the handle portion of the blade transfer the corner marksonto the handle then you get to play connect the dots. do this for both sides.heat along the lines with the heat gun and then cut out the rectangle with a utilityknife. repeat on the other side and while the pvcis still hot check for straightness and make any necessary adjustments.next insert a piece of 1/2" sch 40 pvc into the handle, make a mark a 1/2" from thebottom of the handle, and cut it to size at that mark. this will be used to strengthenthe handle and give us something to attach

the pommel to.kick the tires and light the fires, the time has come to break open the tub of polly plastics, follow the directions on the package to soften1 tablespoon for our first application. we will be placing a ring on either side ofour 1/2" pvc handle insert to secure it. play with it till you get it to slide insidesnugly, then hit it with some heat allowing the thermoplastic to adhere to both piecesof pvc. if you want it to cool quicker you can run it under some cool water.moving on, soften 2 tablespoons of polly plastics for the first side of our ribbed handle.meanwhile, back at the ranch, it's another episode of "choose your weapon!" we willbe doing some shaping on the handle and you

need to choose whatever you have that worksfor you what will it be? a bobby-pin, a butter-knife, a never before used skewer stick, or randomly,a piece from a lock pick set? i choose lock pick set!! this is my preference because ithas a larger flat end and a skinny nubbed end which makes it a spectacular sundry shapingsuperstar. try saying that 5 times fast. the thermoplastic is ready! spread it outevenly inside of the rectangle on the handle. you can dip your fingers in some water toprevent leaving finger prints and rub it smooth. re-heat the thermoplastic and using your shapingutensil make the ribbed pattern in the template, alternating between a 1/2" rib and a 1/8"rib. remember it's not clay so it is not carved,it's plastic, it's pushed and pulled.

keep shaping and re-heating the length ofthe handle and when it cools should look like this.when you repeat that process on the other side i recommend hanging it off the edge ofyour work surface to prevent the first side from softening and deforming.pay close attention to this next part because it will move quickly and i would hate foryou to get pommeled with information. do you get it, see what i did there... ok bad pun.for the pommel, the template has 3 reference rings.the smallest ring is the diameter of the top and bottom of the pommel.the next ring is the diameter of the base of the trapezoidal shapes on either side ofthe center of the pommel.

and the largest ring is the starting diameterfor the middle of the pommel. we'll begin with this section of the pommel.soften 3 tbs of polly plastics and mold it into a conical shape where the base of thecone is the diameter of the second ring and the tip of the cone is the diameter of thesmallest ring and looks like this. i like to toss small pieces like this, intothe freezer to cool while i work on the next part.next soften 1 tbs of polly plastics and flatten it to look like a plain brittish biscuit thediameter of the largest ring. make sure to use a fresh piece of wax paperto prevent this from happening. while this brittish biscuit will not makefor a delicious dunking delicatessen, it will

make for a great pommel starting by attachingit to the upper section we just made. now for the last piece of the pommel puzzle,soften another 2 tbs of polly plastics and begin shaping it into a basic dome shape,then attach it to the pvc outcrop we created at the bottom of the handle and finish shapingit so that it tapers out from the handle to the diameter of the mid-sized ring on thetemplate until it looks like this. once it has cooled, heat both pieces and bringthem together! lastly, hit the center piece with some heatand smooth it out so it doesn't jut out so far and then blend and shape it so the3 pieces flow seamleasly into eachother. once that is cooled, it's onto the detailwork. similar to what we did with adding the

ribs in the handle we will be heating thetop layer of the plastic, do not heat all the way through, and we will press in verticalrunning lines evenly spaced around the top section and upside down trapezoidal shapeson the lower section. the top section should look like this whencooled, and the bottom section like this. and with that the pommel is complete!be on-guard moving onto this next phase as we put on the guard... eh... eh.. stillno? ok just like the pommel we will assemble theguard in pieces, starting with the base of each of the quillons and then adding the phalanges.then finishing with the middle section. ready, set, go!soften 2tbs of polly plastics and press it

into shape using the template.once you have done two of those, hold them in place on the template and draw a line whereeach intersects the blade. take the blade pommel side up and mark a linea half an inch below the end of the ribbed section.we will be attaching these quillon base pieces onto the blade even with that line.heat each piece completely through to where it turns transparent up to the line you drew.then press it against the blade trying to spread an even amount of plastic to eitherside and shape it as seen here. do that to both sides, clean up and smoothout any problems by reheating and shaping till it looks good on both sides.now onto what i am referring to as phalanges.

we will continue with the same way we havebeen going using the template, soften 1 tb for each phalange, you will shape them tomatch the shapes on the template and round them off on the top. start with the insideone and work your way out. repeat this process for all sides left and right and front andback. make sure to leave the base layer showingabove and below the phalanges according to how it is depicted on the template.once you have all phalanges on all sides attached, bring on the heat, hit the tops and sidesand smooth out any visible creases from the layering and help the phalanges from eitherside flow into each other. it should look like this after smoothing.once again, i'd advise using my patented

aquathermo digitation technique of heatingthe plastic with a quick heat pass and dipping my fingers in some water to rub it smooth.alright, you know the drill, soften 1 tb polly plastics and shape it using the template,this one will be shaped like a half circle. heat and place flush with the line made bythe base quillon pieces. shape, and smooth to taste. but don'teat it, it is non toxic.. but still.. ewe do that for both sides and it should looklike this when done. soften another 1 tb and its time to make anotherbrittish biscuit, hmm all this talk of food is making me hungry, i'm gonna grab a snack,you guys should be good for a second right? just follow the guy in the video, you'll be fine.(sound of looking for a snack in the back

ground, wrappers etc..)(mouth full) ok i'm back.. hope there wasn't anything too complicated.so you chopped that biscuit in half right, now all you gotta do is make like zuko andhit with some heat till 1/4" from the flat edge is transparent, this is so we can pressthe softened plastic around each edge to connect the two halves around the blade.do to both sides, heat, smooth, aquathermo digitation, etc. etc, etc.ta-dum! now for the piece that will taper from thecircular piece we just added to the handle. use about 1/2 tb of softened polly plastic,roll it in your hands like an old school play dough worm and wrap it around the blade.smooth it out, press it to give a nice smooth

taper down to just above the ribbed rectangleon the handle. home stretch, take a softened 1/4 tb and shapethe diamond using the template. you guessed it, say it with me now, do bothsides, smooth, aquathermo digitation, and so on.now for the triforce! another 1/4 tb for this oneshape it to the full triangle and then use your shaping utensil to press down along thelines separating the triangles. then give them a slice so that the three trianglesof power, wisdom, courage are separate and cannot be used by ganondorf.place the triforce on the blade and gently heat it up in place till it goes clear, thenyou can go to town on assembling it and whipping

it into shape.once it has cooled you should be able to touch it and according to legend be able to moldthe sacred realm to reflect the desires of your heart.while you are waiting for that wish to come true, lets add a little detail to the triforceusing some scrap polly plastic lying around or by heating up some more. i also added thisdetail to the template if that will make it easier for you.are you getting sooo excited, i am! your master sword is almost complete, a little paint andyou will soon be able to wield it's power for yourself!painting is easy, just time consuming. step one paint the blade with the metallicsilver spray paint, a little overlap is not

a problem at this point. i recommend tryingto hang it like i have if you are able to, it makes the process easier and quicker.let it sit for 20 mins to an hour and add a second coat.then after letting it hang out for 24 to 72 hours you can tape around the guard, you canuse small pieces to make sure you get a nice clean taping along where the blade meets theguard. this taping is important to get a nice clean finish. it is worth it to buy painterstape to make sure it comes off easy and doesn't damage your paint job.once you have the detail sections taped with a couple inch buffer, you can tape a paperbag, wrapping paper or plastic around the rest of the blade.then its time to use the magical rustoleum

metallic blue paint!just like with the silver, give it 20 mins to an hour and do a second coat.a couple hours after the second coat, you can carefully use the gold paint pen to painton the gold jewel, don't press too hard with the gold pen because it will run anddon't put it on too heavy close to the tape either because it can seep through the cracksof the tape. let sit for 24 hours and then use a utilityknife to make sure the tape will remove cleanly. finally, this isn't necessary but i highlyrecommend that you add the minwax clear gloss polyurethane coat. this will not only makeyour sword more durable but it also increases it's luster and shine.wait for 1 hour and then add a second coat.

then give it at least 24 hours to set beforenormal use and 72 hours before heavy use. well, that's it, you now have yourvery own sword, you can go take it to comic con, hang it on the wall, wear it out to prom,whatever you would like you are the master of your own sword. ok, this is why i don'tdo stand up. this should get your attention, as promisedi have struck an awesome deal for you in obtaining polly plastics. if you send an email to support@pollyplastics.comwith the subject heading plastic_apprentice promo. they will send you an amazon promocode for 20% off a 35oz. tub of polly plastics! just tell them you saw my tutorial and takeadvantage of the savings! i hope you enjoyed this tutorial as much asi did, i would love to hear your comments

and questions also let me know what otherswords you would like to see made. you guys are the best, have a great day and pleasesubscribe! thanks for watching!

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